Pilgrims have been making their way on foot (and cycle) to the great cathedral at Santiago by various “Ways,” the most popular being the Camino Frances or the French Way. It’s difficult to avoid crowds, so the Camino del Norte is a more strenuous alternative with fewer people.

The Camino del Norte spans 822km, following the Bay of Biscay from Irún, on the French border, to Ribadeo before cutting inland towards Santiago. The route takes about five weeks, but I only have six days. So, I will walk the section along the coast, starting in San Sebastian and ending in Bilbao.

The logistics mean I arrive on a Vueling flight from London in Bilbao and then take the bus to San Sebastian. It’s less than two hours this way, but covering the same ground on foot will take me six days. The green rolling hills, studded with quaint Basque farmhouses and lush forests, will be my constant companions for the next week.

San Sebastian to Zarautz 24km

The weather is improving, and I follow the coast to the fishing town of Getaria. From here, it’s a steep uphill on dirt roads and paved tracks, then a gentle descent to Zumaia, another typical Basque fishing port. Out of town, I leave the Camino to follow an alternative route through the Basque Coast Geopark.
This is a spectacular diversion with dramatic coastal scenery layered with sandstone cliffs sweeping down to the sea. These Flysch deposits, in alternate layers, record rapid changes in sea level. Over 60 million years, they were pushed upwards, forming the strata I can see in front of me. Of course, cliffs mean a lot of ups and downs, and by the time I arrive in Deba, I’m ready to drop.

Deba to Markina-Xemein 26km

I’m staying slightly out of town, so I retrace my steps and cross the river. Then, climb steeply on a soundtrack to the Ermita del Calvario. Here’s an old Probadero, used by farmers to test the strength of oxen by getting them to drag rocks over cobblestones. The path passes Olatz on a mixture of roads and forest tracks, completely rural, apart from the occasional farm.

It’s a hot day, and stopping for water breaks is essential as, As a result, I chat with my fellow pilgrims. There can’t be more than a handful, but they’re from worldwide, including an elderly couple from China. Finally, the track descends steeply to Markina-Xemein, a small town with a huge black marble quarry. My agro-tourism is just beyond, so I’ll have a head start tomorrow.

Markina-Xemein to Gernika-Lumo 25km

It’s a beautiful sunny morning, and the first village is Ziortza-Bolibar, with its Simón Bolívar museum. His family left here for South America in the 16th century, and he was born there four generations later. Just beyond, at the Monastery of Zenarruza, the priest offers to stamp my Camino pass, but I tell him I’m not going all the way.

Steep steps lead down to the village of Manitoba, then Olabe, on a mixture of roads and paths. It’s getting boiling, and there’s some welcome forest cover as I follow a stream. Then, one last push uphill, with no shade, for a view over the modern city of Gernika.

Franco’s bombers destroyed the old town in the Spanish Civil War, and they’ve not forgotten. Huge photographs in the square document the devastation, and a tiled version of Picasso’s famous painting is nearby.

Franco’s bombers destroyed the old town in the Spanish Civil War, and they’ve not forgotten. Huge photographs in the square document the devastation, and a tiled version of Picasso’s famous painting is nearby.

Gernika-Lumo to Larrabetzu 20 km

First, I visit to see the remaining sapling of the old oak tree where the Lords of Vizcaya gathered over the centuries to swear allegiance. Then, it’s an uphill climb on the usual mixture of paths and forest tracks to 330m before dropping down the road. Still, more climbing takes me to the Altos de Morga and Aretxabalgane.